Trip Report: Shades State Park Back Pack Trail, West Central Indiana

In the wake of my abandoned attempt to hike the Tecumseh Trail, I took a day off to evaluate and review the feedback offered here on the blog, as well as in the Indiana Backpackers, Backpacking, and Hammock Forums groups over on Facebook. Several of the Indiana Backpacker members recommended Shades State Park as a worthy destination to overcome my difficulty of sleeping through the night.

I loaded up the pack to 28 pounds, about 13 pounds lighter than the Tecumseh hike starting weight. I omitted my water bladder since potable water is ensured at the backpack camp. I took two bottles, along with my Sawyer Squeeze filter. I really only needed one bottle and the Sawyer. (Remember than next time!) My other obvious savings was in food weight... and, as I discovered later on, I could have cut that back further as well.

I arrived at the park and after figuring out the logistics of getting registered to use the back pack campground, I was on my way. I have to say that the trail is very inviting right from the get go, and the canopy of the forest is thick enough to have warded off a lot of the heat of the day. Unfortunately, the tradeoff is that there was very little wind. The high, according to the historical data from Weather Underground was measured at nearby New Market, Indiana as 92.7... but I never really felt that except in the very few open areas on the hike.

My first sense of confusion arose when the trail marked Campground took off to the left. Earlier, the signage said  to stay right for the backpack camp, so I continued right.

It was about this time that I caught my first glimpse of a man in the woods. He was slowly walking up to the trail, and while he gave me a smile, he said nothing. I figured he had went off trail for a nature call, so I went on. I'd see him again later.

As I continued, I felt something was wrong - all the signs had trail numbers, but no mention of the backpack camp - but decided to go with it since I was feeling OK and it was early enough in the day. I had managed to get onto trail 8, and as far as one of the ravines in trail 7 when I saw a couple coming at me equipped with only water bottles. I realized I had to have missed my turnoff somewhere, so I retraced my steps and finally figured out what the sign at the trailhead had meant. That said, I am glad I took the off-route path, as I got to see a pair of deer, and view a beautiful little creekfall in one of the ravines.

After going back to the campground turn, I made my way through another amazingly beautiful ravine. The stagnant water in the crook of the creek's turn let me know that the water level was steadily dropping... probably had been for a good month. But the scene was gorgeous as I passed through, and up the next set of stairs thoughtfully provided for folks to ascend.

For a while, the Campground Loop Trail and the Back Pack Trail run together, and it was here that I once again encountered the individual I had seen earlier. He was much deeper in the brush this time and looked confused. He was an older Japanese gentleman, and his English wasn't the greatest... and he was most certainly not dressed or equipped for a hike in the woods. He was wearing a polo shirt, jeans, and dress shoes. He had no water, no compass, and his map was so soaked with sweat that it was falling apart. He came up to me and pointed out into the brush where he had just been, asking about a shortcut. I told him that there were no shortcuts, and that leaving the trail was the surest way to get hopelessly lost. I don't think he understood. I walked with him a bit, and told him that he could either go to the campground, where I was sure there were people who might be able to help him, or he could take the trail marked with the 'return to main park trails' signs. He refused my further offers of assistance, and took off towards the Campground. With a shrug, I turned and resumed my hike.

The Campground Loop got a bit tedious for me, mainly because I really wanted to be back on the Back Pack Trail, headed for my ultimate destination. Getting off the loop would be another major step thereto. After bearing off to the west on the Back Pack Trail, it meandered to and fro through ravines, and crossed the county line near a power line clearing. The neat thing about the Back Pack Trail at Shades is that it runs through several types of forest areas, all of which are explained in the interpretive section of the map provided by the park.

A little further on, the trail widened a bit in what I figured was the access road for DNR security, but it wasn't. Still, it was a nice, wide path for a bit. Later, a gravel road was visible to my left as I neared the signs for the Back Pack Camp.

Upon arriving, I discovered nobody else present. It was in the 1 o'clock hour, so I had my choice of all seven clearings. Each clearing can accommodate 2 tents and up to 6 campers, and they feature a fire ring with cooking grate as well as a picnic table. I wanted to be closer to the creek, but the closest site to the creek was still a good quarter mile from the creek, and did not have trees spaced sufficiently to string up my hammock from. Ultimately, I chose a spot one clearing removed from the primitive facilities (pit toilet and a water spigot) and got to hanging up the Amok Dramur 2.0 for her second spin.

On the way out, I made one rest stop for some water (about 1/2 a liter) and some M&M's. After setting up camp, I discovered I as not really hungry enough to justify cooking my planned lunch. Some Justin's peanut butter pouches and M&M's provided more than enough energy for my afternoon, and I didn't really think about cooking dinner until after 6 PM.

I went to replenish my water at the provided spigot. The water was milky in color and bubbled, so, even though the DNR says it is safe to drink, I did decide to filter it. It definitely tasted better after I did so. After making a brief video (click here to view it on YouTube), I decided I really wasn't that tired, so I decided to head down to the Canoe Camp and Sugar Creek. On my way down, I spotted a barn owl flying overhead. He wound up landing on a branch perhaps 20 feet away from me, and just sat there for a while, allowing me to take a photograph of him before he flew off. I didn't see him again, but I definately heard him off and on throughout the afternoon.

The Canoe Camp was empty, and so I continued on down to the water's edge. Tadpoles were aplenty, and some lazy fish were collecting lunch as I walked along the shore. The water was tranquil and welcoming, but the DNR rules state no wading or swimming in the creek.

Upon returning to my camp area, I decided to kick of my shoes (I replaced my Lake & Trail insulated boots that failed on Monday with a pair of Merrill Moab Ventilators - gear review will be forthcoming) and climb into the hammock. My campsite was a bit buggy, so I did zip up the bug netting which reduced what little breeze was flowing through to almost nothing. (It is my understanding that the bug netting on the 3.0 model is far more breathable than the 2.0 net.) Because I was in a highly shaded area, though, this was OK.

I listened to the first two sessions of the Meditation for Christians audio retreat by James Finley, a former conferee with Thomas Merton at Gethsemani Abbey in Kentucky. Since I was alone, I just used my phone speaker instead of earbuds, as I was afraid I would miss park security if they came by to do their evening check and firewood sale. After listening, I went out and started getting things arranged for dinner. As I did so, I heard a car coming up the gravel drive, and the DNR Security officer checked in. I was the only camper for the night. I bought my wood ($5.35 inclusive of tax) and he left and went down to the Canoe Camp to make sure nobody had come ashore since I had last been there. He confirmed no change to the forecast - a clear night was anticipated. Thus, I did not pitch my tarp.

Dinner was a Mountain House Spaghetti with Meat Sauce which was OK. I listened to music on the phone, which was all it was good for, as there was absolutely no cell service in the camp, not even for texting. (I am on Verizon.) I was also noticing that the bugginess was pretty much eliminated by 6:30 PM. I still used my bug netting, but the night was really quite comfortable.

I did some more walking around the camp area just to explore before heading back to camp late in the 8 PM hour. I gave a shout asking if anyone else was around, since campers have until 1 hour before dusk to check in and use the site. No answer. I had seen one other hiker (trail runner, actually) and the park security officer. I would see nobody else until the morning. I was quite literally a mile from any help should anything go wrong.

Around 9:30 I lit my campfire. It was glorious! Once it got going good, I chose to chant compline from memory, using the form of the monks at New Melleray Abbey in Peosta, Iowa. With nobody else in the woods with me, I chanted with full gusto, and slowly - savoring the experience. At about 10:45, after some time of personal prayer and reflection, the fire was nearly out, so I decided to climb into the hammock and zip in for the night.

As I lay there, perhaps ten minutes in, a lone howl pierced the silence. Followed by a second. The two  howls had come from my left... the two began to howl in unison and were answered by a resounding group howl from the north side of Sugar Creek. I assume they were wolves of some form... and the sounds was, at one moment a bit scary, but for the most part, totally awe-inspiring and beautiful. I dozed in and out through the 11 o'clock hour, using a short playlist twice to really relax and doze. A little after midnight, I realized I was getting chilly, so I zipped on my jacket and wrapped my fleece blanket around my legs.

At some point after midnight, I dozed off and slept until about 4 AM, when I realized I was freezing and that I had to go to the bathroom. I pulled the fleece over my core, which helped minimally, but a half hour later I was still cold had to get up. After a visit to the privy, I added the final chunk of firewood and rekindled my fire. As I discovered upon returning home, the temperature in nearby New Market was 54.9... and I was definitely inadequately provisioned for sleeping. Around 5:30 I made the snack I had packed for the night before (instant rice in Nido and hot chocolate mix) and that really helped me warm up. The morning sky began to glow a wonderful rosy-orange as the 6 o'clock hour beckond me back to the hammock for a little additional shut eye. I set my alarm for 8 AM as I wanted to be back to the car by 11.

Upon awaking, I made a serving of Mountain House Scrambled Eggs and Bacon that did not, in the slightest, agree with me. I only ate about half of the bag before realizing that it was way too heavy on my stomach.

With the hammock packed and everything squared away, I left camp around 9:10 AM, and had an uneventful hike back to the car. Arriving just before 11 AM. I was originally planning to hike further in the park, but I was definitely feeling tired and decided that Shades would provide more than enough opportunities for future hiking, so I headed out for home.

A few things I need to consider -

Need to make some decisions on sleep gear. I intend to modify a Costco down throw for cooler weather later this year, but what will work best for summer?

I am definitely overpacking on food still. As a commenter on my last post noted, we pack our fears. I felt going out that I had taken that into account, but I still way overpacked.

What to do about my pack... my High Sierra Explorer 55 experienced another failure, and remains very uncomfortable. It also ripped up the back of my hiking shirtbut good. I think I am going to have to recontact them... but I can't afford a differnet back anytime soon. When I can, I will be going to a place like REI to get properly fitted.

I would highly recommend Shades' Back Pack Trail to anyone looking for a good overnight option. It's near enough to the Indy Metro area to make access a breeze, but far enough out there to give you an awesome backwoods experience.